Thursday, December 30, 2010
Wednesday, December 29, 2010
Versace Spring-Summer 2011 at Milan Fashion Week 2011
Versace Spring-Summer 2011 at Milan Fashion Week 2011: Bright and bold opposites attract at Donatella's Versace's Milan Fashion Week show.
Donatella Versace made the attraction of opposites the key focus of her spring/summer 2011 collection at Milan Fashion Week tonight.
She offset thigh-high hemlines with "the new long", a slim pencil that covered the knee.
She contrasted cheeky cutouts, panels of see-through PVC, and rib cage-skimming jackets with high-waisted skirts and modest necklines.
And she mixed plain white and beige with sharp, bright, primary stripes in red, turquoise and yellow, with black and white.
The Greek "fret" or "key" motif, first used by her late brother, Gianni, was a major element in this snappy, sculptured show.
Like a frieze on a Delphic temple, it traced a line down the torso, on a slim patent belt around the waist, or in the flurry of multicoloured fringing which marked the sexy little party-dresses, and cutaway tops with slim skirts.
Many dresses featured equestrian-look "martingale" straps at the back, or sides, criss-crossing over bare flesh.
Donatella Versace also wrote the epitaph for the famous Versace "platform", accessorising all her models with spike-heeled, multi-strapped shoes with a "zero sole".
For red carpet devotees, she returned to a favourite theme, the Greek Goddess, with a parade of bra-top gowns, in red, turquoise, beige and white, swathed over the bodice with silk fringes, which then cascaded over the long skirts.
The Mad Men actress January Jones, together with Jada Pinkett-Smith, and her singer-daughter, Willow, and Alex James of Blur, were expected at the second showing of the Versace collection later tonight.
The Versace collection also featured several pieces of knitwear inspired by the young British designer, Louise Goldin, the British Fashion Council Fashion Forward winner, sponsored by Coutts, who has just started a consultancy project with the Italian brand.
She offset thigh-high hemlines with "the new long", a slim pencil that covered the knee.
She contrasted cheeky cutouts, panels of see-through PVC, and rib cage-skimming jackets with high-waisted skirts and modest necklines.
And she mixed plain white and beige with sharp, bright, primary stripes in red, turquoise and yellow, with black and white.
The Greek "fret" or "key" motif, first used by her late brother, Gianni, was a major element in this snappy, sculptured show.
Like a frieze on a Delphic temple, it traced a line down the torso, on a slim patent belt around the waist, or in the flurry of multicoloured fringing which marked the sexy little party-dresses, and cutaway tops with slim skirts.
Many dresses featured equestrian-look "martingale" straps at the back, or sides, criss-crossing over bare flesh.
Donatella Versace also wrote the epitaph for the famous Versace "platform", accessorising all her models with spike-heeled, multi-strapped shoes with a "zero sole".
For red carpet devotees, she returned to a favourite theme, the Greek Goddess, with a parade of bra-top gowns, in red, turquoise, beige and white, swathed over the bodice with silk fringes, which then cascaded over the long skirts.
The Mad Men actress January Jones, together with Jada Pinkett-Smith, and her singer-daughter, Willow, and Alex James of Blur, were expected at the second showing of the Versace collection later tonight.
The Versace collection also featured several pieces of knitwear inspired by the young British designer, Louise Goldin, the British Fashion Council Fashion Forward winner, sponsored by Coutts, who has just started a consultancy project with the Italian brand.
Photos of Versace Spring-Summer 2011
Etiketler:
Versace 2011
Tuesday, December 28, 2010
Amanda Lew Kee delivers fresh-faced beauty
Youth and wonderment can't help but be alluded to when a designer is as young as Amanda Lew Kee - 21 years old - but in her case, it results in wistfulness, not childishness.
The recent Ryerson University grad's show began in anticipation, with models clad in blue lipstick posing on a centre riser in the dark, wearing pieces only visible by camera flash.
Beginning with suits and dresses composed of puffed sleeves piped in cream, the show quickly turned to nude sheaths crafted from what appeared to be only two pieces of sheer fabric layering over one another. As the models moved, so did these wisps, showing the latent sex appeal in these garments.
While the youthfulness played out in several mini dresses, there was also a futuristic sequence of suit separates made from a vinyl-looking textile in blue grey, pale salmon and sand, the creases of which would only look better the more they were worn.
Slink appeared in the collection with a racerback cocktail dress, and a low V-necked gown made of the sheerest jersey that gathered in a ruched bust hanging on thin straps. Blocks of metallic fringe complemented two ensembles with sheer arms featuring zippers just below the shoulder.
The show finished with a beige peasant skirted gown that floated down to a train - two characteristics that look to be big next season. To that end, there was a nice representation of popular styles, like the exposed zippers in nearly every piece, combined with the designer's own fresh perspective.
The presentation was redundant at times - one paper thin dress fluttered down the runway five times, as both a gown and mini - but overall, the show left onlookers wanting more Lew Kee. The young designer looks like a sure bet to flourish in seasons to come.
The recent Ryerson University grad's show began in anticipation, with models clad in blue lipstick posing on a centre riser in the dark, wearing pieces only visible by camera flash.
Beginning with suits and dresses composed of puffed sleeves piped in cream, the show quickly turned to nude sheaths crafted from what appeared to be only two pieces of sheer fabric layering over one another. As the models moved, so did these wisps, showing the latent sex appeal in these garments.
While the youthfulness played out in several mini dresses, there was also a futuristic sequence of suit separates made from a vinyl-looking textile in blue grey, pale salmon and sand, the creases of which would only look better the more they were worn.
Slink appeared in the collection with a racerback cocktail dress, and a low V-necked gown made of the sheerest jersey that gathered in a ruched bust hanging on thin straps. Blocks of metallic fringe complemented two ensembles with sheer arms featuring zippers just below the shoulder.
The show finished with a beige peasant skirted gown that floated down to a train - two characteristics that look to be big next season. To that end, there was a nice representation of popular styles, like the exposed zippers in nearly every piece, combined with the designer's own fresh perspective.
The presentation was redundant at times - one paper thin dress fluttered down the runway five times, as both a gown and mini - but overall, the show left onlookers wanting more Lew Kee. The young designer looks like a sure bet to flourish in seasons to come.
Etiketler:
Designer,
Fashion Designer
Monday, December 27, 2010
Sunday, December 26, 2010
The model whisperer
NEW YORK CITY - This is a guy that a number of men would gladly switch day jobs with for a few hours. After all, most of the stunning women featured in Sports Illustrated or on the Victoria's Secret catwalk have one thing in common: Justin Gelband, nicknamed 'The Model Whisperer.'
The personal trainer from New Jersey sculpts the bodies of over twenty top models in New York City. Yes, gentlemen, he let me into one of his training sessions.
"We all go to Justin," is what you heard backstage at the Victoria's Secret fashion show last month. The girls seemed to swear by him, saying he helped them get their nearly perfect physiques.
On a chilly December morning, the elevator doors open onto a private gym on Fifth Avenue near 14th street. It's the same gym where Quebec UFC star Georges St-Pierre trains when he's in the Big Apple.
And it's where Gelband performs his magic on the likes of Australian model Miranda Kerr, British model Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and U.S. model Lily Aldridge.
Now, sprawled on an exercise mat, is Sports Illustrated model and girlfriend to Maroon 5 singer Adam Levine, Anne Vyalitsyna. She's finishing up a workout session, her face covered in sweat.
As I speak with Gelband, she comes over, hugs him, plants a kiss on his cheek, tosses a fur coat over her shoulders and heads out the door.
"I'm very close to these girls, they are my best friends," says the 37-year-old trainer. So close in fact, that he sometimes gets uncomfortable when he sees their photo spreads in magazines.
"When they are not wearing much, it's embarrassing. They're like family," he says.
Just like mortals, models also have their insecurities.
"Listen, they are born beautiful but that doesn't mean they don't feel fat. I see it every day," maintains the man who was in charge of preparing eight girls for the Victoria's Secret show in November.
"Every single one of these girls is insecure. The number one insecurity is they think they are never good enough."
Models need to be trained differently from other clients because the standards are different.
"Inner thighs are probably the number one concern in the business," says Gelband. "Everyone talks constantly about the gap between the girls' legs."
His success, he says, is not only due to the variety and diversity of his training methods, but also in knowing what exercises to avoid.
"I don't want to take away anything from the style of my competitors, but I don't do lunges, jumps, crazy weights and dance moves - these girls can't afford to bulk," he says. "They are supposed to look like models."
And it certainly sounds like he's proud of his results.
"When I started this job in New York five years ago, I said to myself: 'I will break the trend and bring sexy back on the runway,'" he says.
He explains that the high fashion androgynous look created models who deny themselves a balanced diet, smoke like chimneys, and in some cases, take prescription drugs like Adderall or OxyContin to suppress their appetite.
"The pressure on them to be very, very, very skinny is constant. I'm fortunate because all the girls I train are Victoria's Secret and Sports Illustrated models."
Justin got his start training model Angela Lindvall.
"She had just given birth to her second child and had to lose 20 lbs in three months for a fashion show," he says.
She did, and from there his skills spread through the fashion world by word of mouth.
There was Bridget Hall and Canadian supermodel Coco Rocha. In 2007, Miranda Kerr came to see him to add curves to her tomboy frame.
"They wanted her to gain five to 10 pounds to look more voluptuous," says Justin.
And what does his girlfriend think of all this?
"I'm lucky to have a woman who is comfortable with who she is, but I have to say for a long time, the dating was really hard. Every woman was comparing themselves with the girls!"
The personal trainer from New Jersey sculpts the bodies of over twenty top models in New York City. Yes, gentlemen, he let me into one of his training sessions.
"We all go to Justin," is what you heard backstage at the Victoria's Secret fashion show last month. The girls seemed to swear by him, saying he helped them get their nearly perfect physiques.
On a chilly December morning, the elevator doors open onto a private gym on Fifth Avenue near 14th street. It's the same gym where Quebec UFC star Georges St-Pierre trains when he's in the Big Apple.
And it's where Gelband performs his magic on the likes of Australian model Miranda Kerr, British model Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and U.S. model Lily Aldridge.
Now, sprawled on an exercise mat, is Sports Illustrated model and girlfriend to Maroon 5 singer Adam Levine, Anne Vyalitsyna. She's finishing up a workout session, her face covered in sweat.
As I speak with Gelband, she comes over, hugs him, plants a kiss on his cheek, tosses a fur coat over her shoulders and heads out the door.
"I'm very close to these girls, they are my best friends," says the 37-year-old trainer. So close in fact, that he sometimes gets uncomfortable when he sees their photo spreads in magazines.
"When they are not wearing much, it's embarrassing. They're like family," he says.
Just like mortals, models also have their insecurities.
"Listen, they are born beautiful but that doesn't mean they don't feel fat. I see it every day," maintains the man who was in charge of preparing eight girls for the Victoria's Secret show in November.
"Every single one of these girls is insecure. The number one insecurity is they think they are never good enough."
Models need to be trained differently from other clients because the standards are different.
"Inner thighs are probably the number one concern in the business," says Gelband. "Everyone talks constantly about the gap between the girls' legs."
His success, he says, is not only due to the variety and diversity of his training methods, but also in knowing what exercises to avoid.
"I don't want to take away anything from the style of my competitors, but I don't do lunges, jumps, crazy weights and dance moves - these girls can't afford to bulk," he says. "They are supposed to look like models."
And it certainly sounds like he's proud of his results.
"When I started this job in New York five years ago, I said to myself: 'I will break the trend and bring sexy back on the runway,'" he says.
He explains that the high fashion androgynous look created models who deny themselves a balanced diet, smoke like chimneys, and in some cases, take prescription drugs like Adderall or OxyContin to suppress their appetite.
"The pressure on them to be very, very, very skinny is constant. I'm fortunate because all the girls I train are Victoria's Secret and Sports Illustrated models."
Justin got his start training model Angela Lindvall.
"She had just given birth to her second child and had to lose 20 lbs in three months for a fashion show," he says.
She did, and from there his skills spread through the fashion world by word of mouth.
There was Bridget Hall and Canadian supermodel Coco Rocha. In 2007, Miranda Kerr came to see him to add curves to her tomboy frame.
"They wanted her to gain five to 10 pounds to look more voluptuous," says Justin.
And what does his girlfriend think of all this?
"I'm lucky to have a woman who is comfortable with who she is, but I have to say for a long time, the dating was really hard. Every woman was comparing themselves with the girls!"
Etiketler:
fashion news
Saturday, December 25, 2010
London Fashion Week starts
LONDON - BRITISH designers were stepping out to prove their worth at the start of London Fashion Week on Friday, after a report put the value of the UK fashion industry at 37 billion pounds (S$77 billion).
Fashion icons Vivienne Westwood, Burberry Prorsum, Pringle of Scotland and Matthew Williamson will feature at this year's event, alongside London's emerging talent, hot on the heels of New York Fashion Week. While the London show may not reap the riches of its rivals in New York, Milan and Paris, the 'Value of the UK Fashion Industry' report released Thursday showed that fashion in Britain remains big business.
The UK fashion industry has a direct value to the country's economy of nearly 21 billion pounds and its influence on other industries, ranging from IT to tourism, is worth more than 16 billion pounds, according to research commissioned by the British Fashion Council (BFC). That makes it the equivalent of 44 billion euros or US$58 billion. BFC chairman Harold Tillman described fashion as 'a great British success story' but said a 'national action plan' was needed to support its development.
Top designers driving the sector's growth will be staging shows at the grandiose neo-classical Somerset House in central London from Thursday to Wednesday and taking orders for their spring/summer 2011 collections. The event usually generates orders in the region of 100 million pounds, as well as directly contributing 20 million pounds to the London economy, according to BFC.
Kicking off the programme on Friday is menswear designer Paul Costelloe, who says his spring/summer collection is inspired by French fashion designer Madeleine Vionnet and styles of the 1920s and 1930s, 'reinterpreted with a rock'n'roll attitude'.
Also on the opening day, the BFC is to host its first 'sustainable fashion show', aiming to prove that fashion need not cost the earth. The display will showcase the work of designers committed to eco-friendly creations, including Stella McCartney, People Tree and Vivienne Westwood. -- AFP
Fashion icons Vivienne Westwood, Burberry Prorsum, Pringle of Scotland and Matthew Williamson will feature at this year's event, alongside London's emerging talent, hot on the heels of New York Fashion Week. While the London show may not reap the riches of its rivals in New York, Milan and Paris, the 'Value of the UK Fashion Industry' report released Thursday showed that fashion in Britain remains big business.
The UK fashion industry has a direct value to the country's economy of nearly 21 billion pounds and its influence on other industries, ranging from IT to tourism, is worth more than 16 billion pounds, according to research commissioned by the British Fashion Council (BFC). That makes it the equivalent of 44 billion euros or US$58 billion. BFC chairman Harold Tillman described fashion as 'a great British success story' but said a 'national action plan' was needed to support its development.
Top designers driving the sector's growth will be staging shows at the grandiose neo-classical Somerset House in central London from Thursday to Wednesday and taking orders for their spring/summer 2011 collections. The event usually generates orders in the region of 100 million pounds, as well as directly contributing 20 million pounds to the London economy, according to BFC.
Kicking off the programme on Friday is menswear designer Paul Costelloe, who says his spring/summer collection is inspired by French fashion designer Madeleine Vionnet and styles of the 1920s and 1930s, 'reinterpreted with a rock'n'roll attitude'.
Also on the opening day, the BFC is to host its first 'sustainable fashion show', aiming to prove that fashion need not cost the earth. The display will showcase the work of designers committed to eco-friendly creations, including Stella McCartney, People Tree and Vivienne Westwood. -- AFP
Friday, December 24, 2010
Fashion world remembers McQueen
British designer Alexander McQueen spent his career "harnessing his dreams and demons", fashion's elite have been told at his memorial service.
Kate Moss, Sarah Jessica Parker, Naomi Campbell and Stella McCartney were among the stylish friends and relatives gathered for the service at St Paul's Cathedral to celebrate McQueen, who killed himself the day before his mother's funeral.
Anna Wintour, editor-in-chief of American Vogue, paid tribute to "a complex and gifted young man" who grew up not far from the cathedral.
Wintour told the congregation: "He showed us everything was possible, dreams could become reality.
"But he has left us with an even more exceptional legacy, a talent that soared like the birds of his childhood above us all."
Icelandic singer Bjork, who was dressed in white and wearing a pair of angel wings, gave a moving rendition of Gloomy Sunday.
Shaun Leane, a friend of McQueen's, also paid tribute.
Parker caused a stir as she arrived wearing a cream dress protected from the autumn chill by a black knee-length jacket.
Supermodel Campbell wore a black feather dress along with knee-high boots that revealed gold detailing on the sole as she walked up the steps into the cathedral.
Flashes of McQueen's trademark tartan could also be seen as others chose to pay homage by wearing his designs.
Kate Moss, Sarah Jessica Parker, Naomi Campbell and Stella McCartney were among the stylish friends and relatives gathered for the service at St Paul's Cathedral to celebrate McQueen, who killed himself the day before his mother's funeral.
Anna Wintour, editor-in-chief of American Vogue, paid tribute to "a complex and gifted young man" who grew up not far from the cathedral.
Wintour told the congregation: "He showed us everything was possible, dreams could become reality.
"But he has left us with an even more exceptional legacy, a talent that soared like the birds of his childhood above us all."
Icelandic singer Bjork, who was dressed in white and wearing a pair of angel wings, gave a moving rendition of Gloomy Sunday.
Shaun Leane, a friend of McQueen's, also paid tribute.
Parker caused a stir as she arrived wearing a cream dress protected from the autumn chill by a black knee-length jacket.
Supermodel Campbell wore a black feather dress along with knee-high boots that revealed gold detailing on the sole as she walked up the steps into the cathedral.
Flashes of McQueen's trademark tartan could also be seen as others chose to pay homage by wearing his designs.
Etiketler:
Alexander McQueen
French fashion king Yves Saint Laurent dies
PARIS (Reuters) - French fashion king Yves Saint Laurent has died at the age of 71, hailed as a 20th century cultural icon who revolutionized the way women dressed.
PARIS (Reuters) - French fashion king Yves Saint Laurent has died at the age of 71, hailed as a 20th century cultural icon who revolutionized the way women dressed.
The reclusive Saint Laurent's couture creations won global fine art status and he was widely considered to be one of an elite club of designers including Christian Dior and Coco Chanel who made Paris the fashion capital of the world.
From Princess Grace of Monaco to the actress Catherine Deneuve, Saint Laurent's creations adorned many famous women but he was also the first designer to make luxury labels accessible to a wider audience through innovative read-to-wear collections.
He exploded on to the world stage at just 21 and built up a clothes, perfumes and accessories empire that resulted in a 1989 stock market flotation -- the first by a fashion house.
But Saint Laurent, whose death on Sunday was announced without any details of the cause, was plagued by health problems -- he suffered from severe depression and underwent treatment for alcohol abuse.
French President Nicolas Sarkozy praised Saint Laurent as a creative genius. "He was convinced that beauty was a luxury that every man and woman needed," Sarkozy said in a statement.
"(Coco) Chanel gave women freedom. Yves Saint Laurent gave them power," Saint Laurent's long-time friend and business partner Pierre Berge told France Info radio.
"(But) he was someone who was very shy and introverted, who had only very few friends and hid himself from the world."
Saint Laurent, who retired in 2002, was widely credited with changing forever what women wore, making the trouser suit a daytime staple and the tuxedo an elegant option.
He also popularized safari jackets and thigh-high boots, and his transparent blouses made near-nudity acceptable in high society. His square-shouldered suits became classics and he simplified evening-wear, moving from shocking satins to flowing white crepe of Hellenic purity.
"He completely revamped a woman's wardrobe," luxury underwear designer Chantal Thomass told French radio. "His fashion was full of color and inspired by art."
EARLY TALENT
The eldest child of a wealthy French industrialist, Saint Laurent was born and grew up in the then French colony of Algeria and showed a talent for design, making clothes for his younger sisters' dolls.
At 17 he entered a Paris fashion school, and his sketch for a cocktail dress won first prize in an annual contest.
Introduced to Christian Dior, the gangly Saint Laurent was hired on the spot by the creator of the "New Look" and became his chief assistant. On Dior's death in 1957, Saint Laurent became chief designer and swiftly outshone his mentor.
After his first collection introduced the widely copied "trapeze" silhouette with narrow shoulders and flared skirt, the shy 21-year-old was pushed out on to the Dior building balcony and crowds in the avenue below hailed him like royalty.
Saint Laurent directed Dior for three years, until drafted for military service during the Algerian war.
For a sensitive person whose homosexuality had made his school years a torture, army life was an ordeal. He had a nervous breakdown and spent nearly three months in hospital.
Berge got a businessman to provide backing for the young designer to establish his own fashion house, and Saint Laurent presented his first collection under his own name in 1962.
The "YSL" empire grew steadily and Saint Laurent showed an instinctive ability to sense what the mood on the streets was and turn it into high fashion.
But by the late 1980s his health problems were an issue.
Insiders said Saint Laurent, who never read newspapers or listened to the radio, became increasingly cut off from reality and lost touch with all but a tiny group of friends.
"Fame has destroyed him," Berge once said.
"All designers have a bit of the megalomaniac in them -- the only difference is that the fake designers, the bad ones, are happy megalomaniacs while the real ones are unhappy megalomaniacs. Saint Laurent is an unhappy megalomaniac."
Despite the personal demons, his business empire thrived. The 1989 flotation was a runaway success.
But when the Gulf War erupted and the world economy slumped in the early 1990s, Berge and Saint Laurent sank into debt.
In 1992, YSL was absorbed by cosmetics and drugs company Sanofi, with Saint Laurent retaining creative control. Then in 1999 it was bought by the Gucci group, itself controlled by French luxury giant PPR.
Saint Laurent, rarely seen in public after his retirement, was awarded one of France's top honors in 2007.
RTL radio said a funeral service was planned for Friday.
The reclusive Saint Laurent's couture creations won global fine art status and he was widely considered to be one of an elite club of designers including Christian Dior and Coco Chanel who made Paris the fashion capital of the world.
From Princess Grace of Monaco to the actress Catherine Deneuve, Saint Laurent's creations adorned many famous women but he was also the first designer to make luxury labels accessible to a wider audience through innovative read-to-wear collections.
He exploded on to the world stage at just 21 and built up a clothes, perfumes and accessories empire that resulted in a 1989 stock market flotation -- the first by a fashion house.
But Saint Laurent, whose death on Sunday was announced without any details of the cause, was plagued by health problems -- he suffered from severe depression and underwent treatment for alcohol abuse.
French President Nicolas Sarkozy praised Saint Laurent as a creative genius. "He was convinced that beauty was a luxury that every man and woman needed," Sarkozy said in a statement.
"(Coco) Chanel gave women freedom. Yves Saint Laurent gave them power," Saint Laurent's long-time friend and business partner Pierre Berge told France Info radio.
"(But) he was someone who was very shy and introverted, who had only very few friends and hid himself from the world."
Saint Laurent, who retired in 2002, was widely credited with changing forever what women wore, making the trouser suit a daytime staple and the tuxedo an elegant option.
He also popularized safari jackets and thigh-high boots, and his transparent blouses made near-nudity acceptable in high society. His square-shouldered suits became classics and he simplified evening-wear, moving from shocking satins to flowing white crepe of Hellenic purity.
"He completely revamped a woman's wardrobe," luxury underwear designer Chantal Thomass told French radio. "His fashion was full of color and inspired by art."
EARLY TALENT
The eldest child of a wealthy French industrialist, Saint Laurent was born and grew up in the then French colony of Algeria and showed a talent for design, making clothes for his younger sisters' dolls.
At 17 he entered a Paris fashion school, and his sketch for a cocktail dress won first prize in an annual contest.
Introduced to Christian Dior, the gangly Saint Laurent was hired on the spot by the creator of the "New Look" and became his chief assistant. On Dior's death in 1957, Saint Laurent became chief designer and swiftly outshone his mentor.
After his first collection introduced the widely copied "trapeze" silhouette with narrow shoulders and flared skirt, the shy 21-year-old was pushed out on to the Dior building balcony and crowds in the avenue below hailed him like royalty.
Saint Laurent directed Dior for three years, until drafted for military service during the Algerian war.
For a sensitive person whose homosexuality had made his school years a torture, army life was an ordeal. He had a nervous breakdown and spent nearly three months in hospital.
Berge got a businessman to provide backing for the young designer to establish his own fashion house, and Saint Laurent presented his first collection under his own name in 1962.
The "YSL" empire grew steadily and Saint Laurent showed an instinctive ability to sense what the mood on the streets was and turn it into high fashion.
But by the late 1980s his health problems were an issue.
Insiders said Saint Laurent, who never read newspapers or listened to the radio, became increasingly cut off from reality and lost touch with all but a tiny group of friends.
"Fame has destroyed him," Berge once said.
"All designers have a bit of the megalomaniac in them -- the only difference is that the fake designers, the bad ones, are happy megalomaniacs while the real ones are unhappy megalomaniacs. Saint Laurent is an unhappy megalomaniac."
Despite the personal demons, his business empire thrived. The 1989 flotation was a runaway success.
But when the Gulf War erupted and the world economy slumped in the early 1990s, Berge and Saint Laurent sank into debt.
In 1992, YSL was absorbed by cosmetics and drugs company Sanofi, with Saint Laurent retaining creative control. Then in 1999 it was bought by the Gucci group, itself controlled by French luxury giant PPR.
Saint Laurent, rarely seen in public after his retirement, was awarded one of France's top honors in 2007.
RTL radio said a funeral service was planned for Friday.
Tuesday, December 21, 2010
Thursday, December 30, 2010
Zara Coats 2011
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Labels: women's zara coats, zara coats, zara coats 2011, zara coats for women, zara women coats
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Zara Coats For Women 2011
Wednesday, December 29, 2010
Versace Spring-Summer 2011 at Milan Fashion Week 2011
Versace Spring-Summer 2011 at Milan Fashion Week 2011: Bright and bold opposites attract at Donatella's Versace's Milan Fashion Week show.
Donatella Versace made the attraction of opposites the key focus of her spring/summer 2011 collection at Milan Fashion Week tonight.
She offset thigh-high hemlines with "the new long", a slim pencil that covered the knee.
She contrasted cheeky cutouts, panels of see-through PVC, and rib cage-skimming jackets with high-waisted skirts and modest necklines.
And she mixed plain white and beige with sharp, bright, primary stripes in red, turquoise and yellow, with black and white.
The Greek "fret" or "key" motif, first used by her late brother, Gianni, was a major element in this snappy, sculptured show.
Like a frieze on a Delphic temple, it traced a line down the torso, on a slim patent belt around the waist, or in the flurry of multicoloured fringing which marked the sexy little party-dresses, and cutaway tops with slim skirts.
Many dresses featured equestrian-look "martingale" straps at the back, or sides, criss-crossing over bare flesh.
Donatella Versace also wrote the epitaph for the famous Versace "platform", accessorising all her models with spike-heeled, multi-strapped shoes with a "zero sole".
For red carpet devotees, she returned to a favourite theme, the Greek Goddess, with a parade of bra-top gowns, in red, turquoise, beige and white, swathed over the bodice with silk fringes, which then cascaded over the long skirts.
The Mad Men actress January Jones, together with Jada Pinkett-Smith, and her singer-daughter, Willow, and Alex James of Blur, were expected at the second showing of the Versace collection later tonight.
The Versace collection also featured several pieces of knitwear inspired by the young British designer, Louise Goldin, the British Fashion Council Fashion Forward winner, sponsored by Coutts, who has just started a consultancy project with the Italian brand.
She offset thigh-high hemlines with "the new long", a slim pencil that covered the knee.
She contrasted cheeky cutouts, panels of see-through PVC, and rib cage-skimming jackets with high-waisted skirts and modest necklines.
And she mixed plain white and beige with sharp, bright, primary stripes in red, turquoise and yellow, with black and white.
The Greek "fret" or "key" motif, first used by her late brother, Gianni, was a major element in this snappy, sculptured show.
Like a frieze on a Delphic temple, it traced a line down the torso, on a slim patent belt around the waist, or in the flurry of multicoloured fringing which marked the sexy little party-dresses, and cutaway tops with slim skirts.
Many dresses featured equestrian-look "martingale" straps at the back, or sides, criss-crossing over bare flesh.
Donatella Versace also wrote the epitaph for the famous Versace "platform", accessorising all her models with spike-heeled, multi-strapped shoes with a "zero sole".
For red carpet devotees, she returned to a favourite theme, the Greek Goddess, with a parade of bra-top gowns, in red, turquoise, beige and white, swathed over the bodice with silk fringes, which then cascaded over the long skirts.
The Mad Men actress January Jones, together with Jada Pinkett-Smith, and her singer-daughter, Willow, and Alex James of Blur, were expected at the second showing of the Versace collection later tonight.
The Versace collection also featured several pieces of knitwear inspired by the young British designer, Louise Goldin, the British Fashion Council Fashion Forward winner, sponsored by Coutts, who has just started a consultancy project with the Italian brand.
Photos of Versace Spring-Summer 2011
Tuesday, December 28, 2010
Amanda Lew Kee delivers fresh-faced beauty
Youth and wonderment can't help but be alluded to when a designer is as young as Amanda Lew Kee - 21 years old - but in her case, it results in wistfulness, not childishness.
The recent Ryerson University grad's show began in anticipation, with models clad in blue lipstick posing on a centre riser in the dark, wearing pieces only visible by camera flash.
Beginning with suits and dresses composed of puffed sleeves piped in cream, the show quickly turned to nude sheaths crafted from what appeared to be only two pieces of sheer fabric layering over one another. As the models moved, so did these wisps, showing the latent sex appeal in these garments.
While the youthfulness played out in several mini dresses, there was also a futuristic sequence of suit separates made from a vinyl-looking textile in blue grey, pale salmon and sand, the creases of which would only look better the more they were worn.
Slink appeared in the collection with a racerback cocktail dress, and a low V-necked gown made of the sheerest jersey that gathered in a ruched bust hanging on thin straps. Blocks of metallic fringe complemented two ensembles with sheer arms featuring zippers just below the shoulder.
The show finished with a beige peasant skirted gown that floated down to a train - two characteristics that look to be big next season. To that end, there was a nice representation of popular styles, like the exposed zippers in nearly every piece, combined with the designer's own fresh perspective.
The presentation was redundant at times - one paper thin dress fluttered down the runway five times, as both a gown and mini - but overall, the show left onlookers wanting more Lew Kee. The young designer looks like a sure bet to flourish in seasons to come.
The recent Ryerson University grad's show began in anticipation, with models clad in blue lipstick posing on a centre riser in the dark, wearing pieces only visible by camera flash.
Beginning with suits and dresses composed of puffed sleeves piped in cream, the show quickly turned to nude sheaths crafted from what appeared to be only two pieces of sheer fabric layering over one another. As the models moved, so did these wisps, showing the latent sex appeal in these garments.
While the youthfulness played out in several mini dresses, there was also a futuristic sequence of suit separates made from a vinyl-looking textile in blue grey, pale salmon and sand, the creases of which would only look better the more they were worn.
Slink appeared in the collection with a racerback cocktail dress, and a low V-necked gown made of the sheerest jersey that gathered in a ruched bust hanging on thin straps. Blocks of metallic fringe complemented two ensembles with sheer arms featuring zippers just below the shoulder.
The show finished with a beige peasant skirted gown that floated down to a train - two characteristics that look to be big next season. To that end, there was a nice representation of popular styles, like the exposed zippers in nearly every piece, combined with the designer's own fresh perspective.
The presentation was redundant at times - one paper thin dress fluttered down the runway five times, as both a gown and mini - but overall, the show left onlookers wanting more Lew Kee. The young designer looks like a sure bet to flourish in seasons to come.
Monday, December 27, 2010
Sunday, December 26, 2010
The model whisperer
NEW YORK CITY - This is a guy that a number of men would gladly switch day jobs with for a few hours. After all, most of the stunning women featured in Sports Illustrated or on the Victoria's Secret catwalk have one thing in common: Justin Gelband, nicknamed 'The Model Whisperer.'
The personal trainer from New Jersey sculpts the bodies of over twenty top models in New York City. Yes, gentlemen, he let me into one of his training sessions.
"We all go to Justin," is what you heard backstage at the Victoria's Secret fashion show last month. The girls seemed to swear by him, saying he helped them get their nearly perfect physiques.
On a chilly December morning, the elevator doors open onto a private gym on Fifth Avenue near 14th street. It's the same gym where Quebec UFC star Georges St-Pierre trains when he's in the Big Apple.
And it's where Gelband performs his magic on the likes of Australian model Miranda Kerr, British model Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and U.S. model Lily Aldridge.
Now, sprawled on an exercise mat, is Sports Illustrated model and girlfriend to Maroon 5 singer Adam Levine, Anne Vyalitsyna. She's finishing up a workout session, her face covered in sweat.
As I speak with Gelband, she comes over, hugs him, plants a kiss on his cheek, tosses a fur coat over her shoulders and heads out the door.
"I'm very close to these girls, they are my best friends," says the 37-year-old trainer. So close in fact, that he sometimes gets uncomfortable when he sees their photo spreads in magazines.
"When they are not wearing much, it's embarrassing. They're like family," he says.
Just like mortals, models also have their insecurities.
"Listen, they are born beautiful but that doesn't mean they don't feel fat. I see it every day," maintains the man who was in charge of preparing eight girls for the Victoria's Secret show in November.
"Every single one of these girls is insecure. The number one insecurity is they think they are never good enough."
Models need to be trained differently from other clients because the standards are different.
"Inner thighs are probably the number one concern in the business," says Gelband. "Everyone talks constantly about the gap between the girls' legs."
His success, he says, is not only due to the variety and diversity of his training methods, but also in knowing what exercises to avoid.
"I don't want to take away anything from the style of my competitors, but I don't do lunges, jumps, crazy weights and dance moves - these girls can't afford to bulk," he says. "They are supposed to look like models."
And it certainly sounds like he's proud of his results.
"When I started this job in New York five years ago, I said to myself: 'I will break the trend and bring sexy back on the runway,'" he says.
He explains that the high fashion androgynous look created models who deny themselves a balanced diet, smoke like chimneys, and in some cases, take prescription drugs like Adderall or OxyContin to suppress their appetite.
"The pressure on them to be very, very, very skinny is constant. I'm fortunate because all the girls I train are Victoria's Secret and Sports Illustrated models."
Justin got his start training model Angela Lindvall.
"She had just given birth to her second child and had to lose 20 lbs in three months for a fashion show," he says.
She did, and from there his skills spread through the fashion world by word of mouth.
There was Bridget Hall and Canadian supermodel Coco Rocha. In 2007, Miranda Kerr came to see him to add curves to her tomboy frame.
"They wanted her to gain five to 10 pounds to look more voluptuous," says Justin.
And what does his girlfriend think of all this?
"I'm lucky to have a woman who is comfortable with who she is, but I have to say for a long time, the dating was really hard. Every woman was comparing themselves with the girls!"
The personal trainer from New Jersey sculpts the bodies of over twenty top models in New York City. Yes, gentlemen, he let me into one of his training sessions.
"We all go to Justin," is what you heard backstage at the Victoria's Secret fashion show last month. The girls seemed to swear by him, saying he helped them get their nearly perfect physiques.
On a chilly December morning, the elevator doors open onto a private gym on Fifth Avenue near 14th street. It's the same gym where Quebec UFC star Georges St-Pierre trains when he's in the Big Apple.
And it's where Gelband performs his magic on the likes of Australian model Miranda Kerr, British model Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and U.S. model Lily Aldridge.
Now, sprawled on an exercise mat, is Sports Illustrated model and girlfriend to Maroon 5 singer Adam Levine, Anne Vyalitsyna. She's finishing up a workout session, her face covered in sweat.
As I speak with Gelband, she comes over, hugs him, plants a kiss on his cheek, tosses a fur coat over her shoulders and heads out the door.
"I'm very close to these girls, they are my best friends," says the 37-year-old trainer. So close in fact, that he sometimes gets uncomfortable when he sees their photo spreads in magazines.
"When they are not wearing much, it's embarrassing. They're like family," he says.
Just like mortals, models also have their insecurities.
"Listen, they are born beautiful but that doesn't mean they don't feel fat. I see it every day," maintains the man who was in charge of preparing eight girls for the Victoria's Secret show in November.
"Every single one of these girls is insecure. The number one insecurity is they think they are never good enough."
Models need to be trained differently from other clients because the standards are different.
"Inner thighs are probably the number one concern in the business," says Gelband. "Everyone talks constantly about the gap between the girls' legs."
His success, he says, is not only due to the variety and diversity of his training methods, but also in knowing what exercises to avoid.
"I don't want to take away anything from the style of my competitors, but I don't do lunges, jumps, crazy weights and dance moves - these girls can't afford to bulk," he says. "They are supposed to look like models."
And it certainly sounds like he's proud of his results.
"When I started this job in New York five years ago, I said to myself: 'I will break the trend and bring sexy back on the runway,'" he says.
He explains that the high fashion androgynous look created models who deny themselves a balanced diet, smoke like chimneys, and in some cases, take prescription drugs like Adderall or OxyContin to suppress their appetite.
"The pressure on them to be very, very, very skinny is constant. I'm fortunate because all the girls I train are Victoria's Secret and Sports Illustrated models."
Justin got his start training model Angela Lindvall.
"She had just given birth to her second child and had to lose 20 lbs in three months for a fashion show," he says.
She did, and from there his skills spread through the fashion world by word of mouth.
There was Bridget Hall and Canadian supermodel Coco Rocha. In 2007, Miranda Kerr came to see him to add curves to her tomboy frame.
"They wanted her to gain five to 10 pounds to look more voluptuous," says Justin.
And what does his girlfriend think of all this?
"I'm lucky to have a woman who is comfortable with who she is, but I have to say for a long time, the dating was really hard. Every woman was comparing themselves with the girls!"
Saturday, December 25, 2010
London Fashion Week starts
LONDON - BRITISH designers were stepping out to prove their worth at the start of London Fashion Week on Friday, after a report put the value of the UK fashion industry at 37 billion pounds (S$77 billion).
Fashion icons Vivienne Westwood, Burberry Prorsum, Pringle of Scotland and Matthew Williamson will feature at this year's event, alongside London's emerging talent, hot on the heels of New York Fashion Week. While the London show may not reap the riches of its rivals in New York, Milan and Paris, the 'Value of the UK Fashion Industry' report released Thursday showed that fashion in Britain remains big business.
The UK fashion industry has a direct value to the country's economy of nearly 21 billion pounds and its influence on other industries, ranging from IT to tourism, is worth more than 16 billion pounds, according to research commissioned by the British Fashion Council (BFC). That makes it the equivalent of 44 billion euros or US$58 billion. BFC chairman Harold Tillman described fashion as 'a great British success story' but said a 'national action plan' was needed to support its development.
Top designers driving the sector's growth will be staging shows at the grandiose neo-classical Somerset House in central London from Thursday to Wednesday and taking orders for their spring/summer 2011 collections. The event usually generates orders in the region of 100 million pounds, as well as directly contributing 20 million pounds to the London economy, according to BFC.
Kicking off the programme on Friday is menswear designer Paul Costelloe, who says his spring/summer collection is inspired by French fashion designer Madeleine Vionnet and styles of the 1920s and 1930s, 'reinterpreted with a rock'n'roll attitude'.
Also on the opening day, the BFC is to host its first 'sustainable fashion show', aiming to prove that fashion need not cost the earth. The display will showcase the work of designers committed to eco-friendly creations, including Stella McCartney, People Tree and Vivienne Westwood. -- AFP
Fashion icons Vivienne Westwood, Burberry Prorsum, Pringle of Scotland and Matthew Williamson will feature at this year's event, alongside London's emerging talent, hot on the heels of New York Fashion Week. While the London show may not reap the riches of its rivals in New York, Milan and Paris, the 'Value of the UK Fashion Industry' report released Thursday showed that fashion in Britain remains big business.
The UK fashion industry has a direct value to the country's economy of nearly 21 billion pounds and its influence on other industries, ranging from IT to tourism, is worth more than 16 billion pounds, according to research commissioned by the British Fashion Council (BFC). That makes it the equivalent of 44 billion euros or US$58 billion. BFC chairman Harold Tillman described fashion as 'a great British success story' but said a 'national action plan' was needed to support its development.
Top designers driving the sector's growth will be staging shows at the grandiose neo-classical Somerset House in central London from Thursday to Wednesday and taking orders for their spring/summer 2011 collections. The event usually generates orders in the region of 100 million pounds, as well as directly contributing 20 million pounds to the London economy, according to BFC.
Kicking off the programme on Friday is menswear designer Paul Costelloe, who says his spring/summer collection is inspired by French fashion designer Madeleine Vionnet and styles of the 1920s and 1930s, 'reinterpreted with a rock'n'roll attitude'.
Also on the opening day, the BFC is to host its first 'sustainable fashion show', aiming to prove that fashion need not cost the earth. The display will showcase the work of designers committed to eco-friendly creations, including Stella McCartney, People Tree and Vivienne Westwood. -- AFP
Friday, December 24, 2010
Fashion world remembers McQueen
British designer Alexander McQueen spent his career "harnessing his dreams and demons", fashion's elite have been told at his memorial service.
Kate Moss, Sarah Jessica Parker, Naomi Campbell and Stella McCartney were among the stylish friends and relatives gathered for the service at St Paul's Cathedral to celebrate McQueen, who killed himself the day before his mother's funeral.
Anna Wintour, editor-in-chief of American Vogue, paid tribute to "a complex and gifted young man" who grew up not far from the cathedral.
Wintour told the congregation: "He showed us everything was possible, dreams could become reality.
"But he has left us with an even more exceptional legacy, a talent that soared like the birds of his childhood above us all."
Icelandic singer Bjork, who was dressed in white and wearing a pair of angel wings, gave a moving rendition of Gloomy Sunday.
Shaun Leane, a friend of McQueen's, also paid tribute.
Parker caused a stir as she arrived wearing a cream dress protected from the autumn chill by a black knee-length jacket.
Supermodel Campbell wore a black feather dress along with knee-high boots that revealed gold detailing on the sole as she walked up the steps into the cathedral.
Flashes of McQueen's trademark tartan could also be seen as others chose to pay homage by wearing his designs.
Kate Moss, Sarah Jessica Parker, Naomi Campbell and Stella McCartney were among the stylish friends and relatives gathered for the service at St Paul's Cathedral to celebrate McQueen, who killed himself the day before his mother's funeral.
Anna Wintour, editor-in-chief of American Vogue, paid tribute to "a complex and gifted young man" who grew up not far from the cathedral.
Wintour told the congregation: "He showed us everything was possible, dreams could become reality.
"But he has left us with an even more exceptional legacy, a talent that soared like the birds of his childhood above us all."
Icelandic singer Bjork, who was dressed in white and wearing a pair of angel wings, gave a moving rendition of Gloomy Sunday.
Shaun Leane, a friend of McQueen's, also paid tribute.
Parker caused a stir as she arrived wearing a cream dress protected from the autumn chill by a black knee-length jacket.
Supermodel Campbell wore a black feather dress along with knee-high boots that revealed gold detailing on the sole as she walked up the steps into the cathedral.
Flashes of McQueen's trademark tartan could also be seen as others chose to pay homage by wearing his designs.
French fashion king Yves Saint Laurent dies
PARIS (Reuters) - French fashion king Yves Saint Laurent has died at the age of 71, hailed as a 20th century cultural icon who revolutionized the way women dressed.
PARIS (Reuters) - French fashion king Yves Saint Laurent has died at the age of 71, hailed as a 20th century cultural icon who revolutionized the way women dressed.
The reclusive Saint Laurent's couture creations won global fine art status and he was widely considered to be one of an elite club of designers including Christian Dior and Coco Chanel who made Paris the fashion capital of the world.
From Princess Grace of Monaco to the actress Catherine Deneuve, Saint Laurent's creations adorned many famous women but he was also the first designer to make luxury labels accessible to a wider audience through innovative read-to-wear collections.
He exploded on to the world stage at just 21 and built up a clothes, perfumes and accessories empire that resulted in a 1989 stock market flotation -- the first by a fashion house.
But Saint Laurent, whose death on Sunday was announced without any details of the cause, was plagued by health problems -- he suffered from severe depression and underwent treatment for alcohol abuse.
French President Nicolas Sarkozy praised Saint Laurent as a creative genius. "He was convinced that beauty was a luxury that every man and woman needed," Sarkozy said in a statement.
"(Coco) Chanel gave women freedom. Yves Saint Laurent gave them power," Saint Laurent's long-time friend and business partner Pierre Berge told France Info radio.
"(But) he was someone who was very shy and introverted, who had only very few friends and hid himself from the world."
Saint Laurent, who retired in 2002, was widely credited with changing forever what women wore, making the trouser suit a daytime staple and the tuxedo an elegant option.
He also popularized safari jackets and thigh-high boots, and his transparent blouses made near-nudity acceptable in high society. His square-shouldered suits became classics and he simplified evening-wear, moving from shocking satins to flowing white crepe of Hellenic purity.
"He completely revamped a woman's wardrobe," luxury underwear designer Chantal Thomass told French radio. "His fashion was full of color and inspired by art."
EARLY TALENT
The eldest child of a wealthy French industrialist, Saint Laurent was born and grew up in the then French colony of Algeria and showed a talent for design, making clothes for his younger sisters' dolls.
At 17 he entered a Paris fashion school, and his sketch for a cocktail dress won first prize in an annual contest.
Introduced to Christian Dior, the gangly Saint Laurent was hired on the spot by the creator of the "New Look" and became his chief assistant. On Dior's death in 1957, Saint Laurent became chief designer and swiftly outshone his mentor.
After his first collection introduced the widely copied "trapeze" silhouette with narrow shoulders and flared skirt, the shy 21-year-old was pushed out on to the Dior building balcony and crowds in the avenue below hailed him like royalty.
Saint Laurent directed Dior for three years, until drafted for military service during the Algerian war.
For a sensitive person whose homosexuality had made his school years a torture, army life was an ordeal. He had a nervous breakdown and spent nearly three months in hospital.
Berge got a businessman to provide backing for the young designer to establish his own fashion house, and Saint Laurent presented his first collection under his own name in 1962.
The "YSL" empire grew steadily and Saint Laurent showed an instinctive ability to sense what the mood on the streets was and turn it into high fashion.
But by the late 1980s his health problems were an issue.
Insiders said Saint Laurent, who never read newspapers or listened to the radio, became increasingly cut off from reality and lost touch with all but a tiny group of friends.
"Fame has destroyed him," Berge once said.
"All designers have a bit of the megalomaniac in them -- the only difference is that the fake designers, the bad ones, are happy megalomaniacs while the real ones are unhappy megalomaniacs. Saint Laurent is an unhappy megalomaniac."
Despite the personal demons, his business empire thrived. The 1989 flotation was a runaway success.
But when the Gulf War erupted and the world economy slumped in the early 1990s, Berge and Saint Laurent sank into debt.
In 1992, YSL was absorbed by cosmetics and drugs company Sanofi, with Saint Laurent retaining creative control. Then in 1999 it was bought by the Gucci group, itself controlled by French luxury giant PPR.
Saint Laurent, rarely seen in public after his retirement, was awarded one of France's top honors in 2007.
RTL radio said a funeral service was planned for Friday.
The reclusive Saint Laurent's couture creations won global fine art status and he was widely considered to be one of an elite club of designers including Christian Dior and Coco Chanel who made Paris the fashion capital of the world.
From Princess Grace of Monaco to the actress Catherine Deneuve, Saint Laurent's creations adorned many famous women but he was also the first designer to make luxury labels accessible to a wider audience through innovative read-to-wear collections.
He exploded on to the world stage at just 21 and built up a clothes, perfumes and accessories empire that resulted in a 1989 stock market flotation -- the first by a fashion house.
But Saint Laurent, whose death on Sunday was announced without any details of the cause, was plagued by health problems -- he suffered from severe depression and underwent treatment for alcohol abuse.
French President Nicolas Sarkozy praised Saint Laurent as a creative genius. "He was convinced that beauty was a luxury that every man and woman needed," Sarkozy said in a statement.
"(Coco) Chanel gave women freedom. Yves Saint Laurent gave them power," Saint Laurent's long-time friend and business partner Pierre Berge told France Info radio.
"(But) he was someone who was very shy and introverted, who had only very few friends and hid himself from the world."
Saint Laurent, who retired in 2002, was widely credited with changing forever what women wore, making the trouser suit a daytime staple and the tuxedo an elegant option.
He also popularized safari jackets and thigh-high boots, and his transparent blouses made near-nudity acceptable in high society. His square-shouldered suits became classics and he simplified evening-wear, moving from shocking satins to flowing white crepe of Hellenic purity.
"He completely revamped a woman's wardrobe," luxury underwear designer Chantal Thomass told French radio. "His fashion was full of color and inspired by art."
EARLY TALENT
The eldest child of a wealthy French industrialist, Saint Laurent was born and grew up in the then French colony of Algeria and showed a talent for design, making clothes for his younger sisters' dolls.
At 17 he entered a Paris fashion school, and his sketch for a cocktail dress won first prize in an annual contest.
Introduced to Christian Dior, the gangly Saint Laurent was hired on the spot by the creator of the "New Look" and became his chief assistant. On Dior's death in 1957, Saint Laurent became chief designer and swiftly outshone his mentor.
After his first collection introduced the widely copied "trapeze" silhouette with narrow shoulders and flared skirt, the shy 21-year-old was pushed out on to the Dior building balcony and crowds in the avenue below hailed him like royalty.
Saint Laurent directed Dior for three years, until drafted for military service during the Algerian war.
For a sensitive person whose homosexuality had made his school years a torture, army life was an ordeal. He had a nervous breakdown and spent nearly three months in hospital.
Berge got a businessman to provide backing for the young designer to establish his own fashion house, and Saint Laurent presented his first collection under his own name in 1962.
The "YSL" empire grew steadily and Saint Laurent showed an instinctive ability to sense what the mood on the streets was and turn it into high fashion.
But by the late 1980s his health problems were an issue.
Insiders said Saint Laurent, who never read newspapers or listened to the radio, became increasingly cut off from reality and lost touch with all but a tiny group of friends.
"Fame has destroyed him," Berge once said.
"All designers have a bit of the megalomaniac in them -- the only difference is that the fake designers, the bad ones, are happy megalomaniacs while the real ones are unhappy megalomaniacs. Saint Laurent is an unhappy megalomaniac."
Despite the personal demons, his business empire thrived. The 1989 flotation was a runaway success.
But when the Gulf War erupted and the world economy slumped in the early 1990s, Berge and Saint Laurent sank into debt.
In 1992, YSL was absorbed by cosmetics and drugs company Sanofi, with Saint Laurent retaining creative control. Then in 1999 it was bought by the Gucci group, itself controlled by French luxury giant PPR.
Saint Laurent, rarely seen in public after his retirement, was awarded one of France's top honors in 2007.
RTL radio said a funeral service was planned for Friday.
Tuesday, December 21, 2010
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